QUOTIDIANOMIME

The Paris Fashion Week allows talented young Londoners to present their collections, thanks to a partnership with the British Fashion Council and Quotidianomime, we tried to learn more about some of the emerging designers, asking them questions, to describe their creations and to understand what lies behind the creation of the collection.

One of the first corners was dedicated to the collection by Michael Van Der Ham: the designer, who has always loved art, was inspired by paintings and architectural structures and trying to create new geometries. The attempt, says a member of his staff, is to create a form of conceptual art. The means to achieve this result are the fabrics: organza, velvet combined with tweed and chiffon, the intent is just to create a collage, a pack work. In fact, behind every outfit, lies the desire to play with fabrics, to give life to the clothes gradually on the mannequin: rational process similar to that used in the composition of a puzzle, as instinctive as the creation of a work of art . This can be compared with each piece of his collection.

Various places are instead the source of inspiration for the designer Ryan Lo, modeling his collection on the hard climate of London. The fact is that the Victorian style, opulent and baroque that perfectly befits an ice princess. And what fabrics best express this idea? Obviously important and gifts: Jacquard and rich brocades with fur details, tulle organza and velvet damask, give life to shirts with collars turned into bows and lace skirts. Can not finally miss a handful of Swarovski crystals to illuminate the whole piece.

There were not only emerging brands, but also established brands such as Diesel, who presented their collection in collaboration with the designer Nicola Formichetti. The English manager Kristian Kristensen said they attempt to revive classic pieces but reinterpreted in a modern way: the color is almost totally absent, it makes a perfect backdrop for details in pop colors, blue and pink Schiaparelli, made with elastic materials, black; nuances of all the leaders in their collection. The proposed elements with different colors, are elements that trace every outfit, repeating with steady pace. There is also a common thread in the use of materials, most of the garments are made from nylon fabric which then becomes the dominant and a main element in the collection.

From totally black to a collection in which the color is important: one signed Sibling. The leaders have been planned and designed for a young, sophisticated and chic look and the fabrics used perfectly suited to this: brushed lamb, lurex and a riot of beads and sequins lend grandeur and panache to the heads. The entire collection is a tribute to the singer Blondie, his words have indeed inspired the creation.

The collection of Holly Fulton presented this year is the tenth, and reserves as always many surprises. The brand’s philosophy is to be able to satisfy a rather large female audience, thus creating versatile leaders, more or less sober: the body entirely covered with stones, in leather jackets from fur details. Tulle, sequins and pastel colors make the collection magical.